Sunday, September 13, 2009
So where are the photographs??
Keeping up with photographs on the blog has become problematical – with more than 2,500 shots, the time it takes to upload images, and the problems I have had with my Internet connectivity – well, you’ll just have to wait until I can edit them down to a more manageable size. Then I’ll post a link to the site where you can view them at your heart’s content!
Sunday, September 13
Sunday – the last full day of our wonderful visit to France – we enjoyed sleeping later than usual, as we were totally on our own. After a late breakfast, we took the Metro to Jardin du Luxembourg – the gardens of the Luxembourg Palace. The gardens and palace were commissioned by Marie de Medici, wife of Henry IV, in 1615, and were designed to resemble her childhood Florentine home. The palace now houses the Senate of France, and the gardens are a public playground, with a huge circular pool and fountain, in which children were sailing toy boats (not motorized – once in, you had to wait until it arrived somewhere you could retrieve it), lots of chairs, lawns for picnicking, tennis courts, a restaurant, lots of beautiful flowers, palm trees (don’t ask me how they survive Paris winters), sculptures, etc. The gardens were full of Parisians and visitors of all ages enjoying a relaxing Sunday.
At this point, we’re proud that we’ve managed to find our way several times on the Metro without ending up in Yugoslavia.
From there, we walked to Ile de la Cité, stopping for lunch along the way on a bustling street. Notre Dame is on the Ile de la Cité, and we took several photos of the outside, but didn’t get in the long line for an indoor visit. Then we caught the Metro back to our hotel, and rested until the farewell reception at 5:30. After saying our good-byes, we headed to dinner and a night boat ride on the Seine.
Dinner was at a touristy (but good) place close to the boat ride and the Eiffel Tower. The boat ride was a bargain – only €5 per person as senior citizens! We were on the 9:00 p.m. boat, and the ride lasted about an hour up and down the Seine, past many of the buildings and churches that we had seen in daylight from the shore. The highlight was the view of the Eiffel Tower, which we had at the start of our ride. The end of our ride took us right up to it. It is illuminated at night and, every hour after dark (stopping at some civilized hour) it sparkles for about 5 minutes – a nice effect, but one that is impossible to capture in a photograph.
And that is the end of our adventure. Now it’s back to reality!
One final thought – when I am reincarnated, I want to come back as a dog in France. They are treated royally, and pretty much go wherever their owners go – to dinner, shopping, out for a stroll, etc. Truly a dog’s life!
At this point, we’re proud that we’ve managed to find our way several times on the Metro without ending up in Yugoslavia.
From there, we walked to Ile de la Cité, stopping for lunch along the way on a bustling street. Notre Dame is on the Ile de la Cité, and we took several photos of the outside, but didn’t get in the long line for an indoor visit. Then we caught the Metro back to our hotel, and rested until the farewell reception at 5:30. After saying our good-byes, we headed to dinner and a night boat ride on the Seine.
Dinner was at a touristy (but good) place close to the boat ride and the Eiffel Tower. The boat ride was a bargain – only €5 per person as senior citizens! We were on the 9:00 p.m. boat, and the ride lasted about an hour up and down the Seine, past many of the buildings and churches that we had seen in daylight from the shore. The highlight was the view of the Eiffel Tower, which we had at the start of our ride. The end of our ride took us right up to it. It is illuminated at night and, every hour after dark (stopping at some civilized hour) it sparkles for about 5 minutes – a nice effect, but one that is impossible to capture in a photograph.
And that is the end of our adventure. Now it’s back to reality!
In case you were wondering what happened to Giverny -- we decided to opt out of this optional tour, since we were told that there were no works of Monet's there. Plus we didn't want to get up that early. Just call us lazy!
One final thought – when I am reincarnated, I want to come back as a dog in France. They are treated royally, and pretty much go wherever their owners go – to dinner, shopping, out for a stroll, etc. Truly a dog’s life!
Saturday, September 12
Saturday began with breakfast at the hotel – very good combination of American and French breakfast options. Our group was then on for a bus tour of highlights of Paris, with a great (and funny) guide. We visited (drove by) the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, various palaces (which are now government buildings) and neighborhoods, etc. The weather in the morning was cool, but sunny.
Our tour then stopped at the Musée d’Orsay, and the Diamonds and Steinbergs (and others) got off to spend more time there. It is a great museum, with lots of impressionist paintings, which are our favorite, sculpture and decorative arts. We got excited when we saw some of the original van Gogh paintings of the places we had seen in Arles earlier on our trip. (Arles has historical markers at each location from which van Gogh painted, and a reproduction of his painting.) Lunch was at the café at the museum and, after a few more galleries at the museum, we headed on a short walk to the Musée de l’Orangerie, which is known for its long panels of Monet water lilies – two oblong rooms contain 12 panels, each of which could fill a wall in a normal room. Wow!
The Musée de l’Orangerie is adjacent to Place de la Concorde, which contains a 3,000 year-old Egyptian obelisk and was the site of mass executions during the French Revolution. It is also in one corner of a section of the Jardin des Tuileries, and we headed into the garden, past a huge round pool surrounded with chairs, each filled with someone enjoying the weekend in Paris. We visited an outdoor café in the garden, and enjoyed sitting and people-watching. We had a waiter that kept apologizing for the slow service – he said it was his first day. When we left, Ivan gave him a tip for being “the slowest waiter in Paris.”
Then we were off for our first visit (this trip) to the Paris Metro. Their subway system works similar to that in DC, so we didn’t have much trouble finding the line that would take us back to Monparnasse station, which is only a block from our hotel. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped to buy a suitcase (so Rita wouldn’t have an overweight suitcase coming home) and some water. Then we were ready for the most important decision of the day – where to have dinner!
We had dinner at a neighborhood restaurant next to the Odean Theatre, 6th Arondissement. It was recommended by a cousin of mine who spends a lot of time in Paris. We agreed that the food was outstanding – Rita said it was the best meal she has had in France – but the service was slower than our earlier stop today. I guess the French just don’t hurry for anything!
Our tour then stopped at the Musée d’Orsay, and the Diamonds and Steinbergs (and others) got off to spend more time there. It is a great museum, with lots of impressionist paintings, which are our favorite, sculpture and decorative arts. We got excited when we saw some of the original van Gogh paintings of the places we had seen in Arles earlier on our trip. (Arles has historical markers at each location from which van Gogh painted, and a reproduction of his painting.) Lunch was at the café at the museum and, after a few more galleries at the museum, we headed on a short walk to the Musée de l’Orangerie, which is known for its long panels of Monet water lilies – two oblong rooms contain 12 panels, each of which could fill a wall in a normal room. Wow!
The Musée de l’Orangerie is adjacent to Place de la Concorde, which contains a 3,000 year-old Egyptian obelisk and was the site of mass executions during the French Revolution. It is also in one corner of a section of the Jardin des Tuileries, and we headed into the garden, past a huge round pool surrounded with chairs, each filled with someone enjoying the weekend in Paris. We visited an outdoor café in the garden, and enjoyed sitting and people-watching. We had a waiter that kept apologizing for the slow service – he said it was his first day. When we left, Ivan gave him a tip for being “the slowest waiter in Paris.”
Then we were off for our first visit (this trip) to the Paris Metro. Their subway system works similar to that in DC, so we didn’t have much trouble finding the line that would take us back to Monparnasse station, which is only a block from our hotel. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped to buy a suitcase (so Rita wouldn’t have an overweight suitcase coming home) and some water. Then we were ready for the most important decision of the day – where to have dinner!
We had dinner at a neighborhood restaurant next to the Odean Theatre, 6th Arondissement. It was recommended by a cousin of mine who spends a lot of time in Paris. We agreed that the food was outstanding – Rita said it was the best meal she has had in France – but the service was slower than our earlier stop today. I guess the French just don’t hurry for anything!
Friday, September 11
Friday morning was the scourge of tours – our luggage needed to be outside our cabin by 7:00 a.m. After an early breakfast, we said our goodbyes to a great ship crew, and hopped on a bus for Paris. We first stopped at Beaune, which is primarily known for its hospital: Hospices de Beaune Hôtel-Dieu. It was built in 1443 as a hospital for the many indigent residents in and around Beaune, and continued in operation until 1971. It is a beautiful structure, and was known as a “Palace for the Poor.” An interesting tidbit – the room for the indigent patients had a chapel at one end so they could go to services without going far. Another interesting fact – there were two patients to a bed. (So much for containment of contagious diseases.) There was also a section where paying patients could come for hospitalization and treatment, and they didn’t share a bed. Caregivers were the Sister of the Hospices de Beaune. We had a local guide take us through the hospital and explain more about it.
We shopped a little in Beaune, grabbed a bite of lunch at a sidewalk café, then it was back on the bus to continue our trip. We had one rest stop – the restaurant was just like those at the highway rest stops in the US, except that they serve salads, wine and beer. Surprising that there aren’t more accidents! Our trip took us past several castles and lots of farmland.
Arrival in Paris found us in a traffic jam, which should be expected with a metro population of 11 million! We unloaded at our hotel, the Meridian Montparnasse, and were pleased to find big rooms and a nice bath…a surprise for a major European city. Our guide took us on a stroll around the neighborhood, and we headed to dinner at a restaurant recommended by Grand Circle, close to the hotel. The food and wine were great, and Rita said it was the best dessert she has ever had. Take that with a grain of salt!
Upon returning to our hotel after dinner, we ran into some old friends from Louisville, proving my theory that you will always run into someone you know if you’re away from home for at least two weeks!
One note -- obviously, 9-11 doesn't have the same meaning to France that it does to the US, but it was acknowledged in the French media.
We shopped a little in Beaune, grabbed a bite of lunch at a sidewalk café, then it was back on the bus to continue our trip. We had one rest stop – the restaurant was just like those at the highway rest stops in the US, except that they serve salads, wine and beer. Surprising that there aren’t more accidents! Our trip took us past several castles and lots of farmland.
Arrival in Paris found us in a traffic jam, which should be expected with a metro population of 11 million! We unloaded at our hotel, the Meridian Montparnasse, and were pleased to find big rooms and a nice bath…a surprise for a major European city. Our guide took us on a stroll around the neighborhood, and we headed to dinner at a restaurant recommended by Grand Circle, close to the hotel. The food and wine were great, and Rita said it was the best dessert she has ever had. Take that with a grain of salt!
Upon returning to our hotel after dinner, we ran into some old friends from Louisville, proving my theory that you will always run into someone you know if you’re away from home for at least two weeks!
One note -- obviously, 9-11 doesn't have the same meaning to France that it does to the US, but it was acknowledged in the French media.
Thursday, September 10
Thursday morning was relaxing onboard, while we cruised up the river to Mâcon. Also, our tour director provided a lecture on how to get around Paris, complete with maps and written information. This should be helpful in making the most of our time there, even though we’ve been there before.
Lunch was on board, and the afternoon was mostly free, with a walking tour of Mâcon, led by our tour director. I would say that this is a town rather than a village – with a lot of international stores – the same as we would find in malls in America. However, there were also many local stores, sidewalk cafés, and old narrow streets. It appears from several near misses that drivers here believe they have the right away…and maybe they do.
Penny continued her quest for a perfume fragrance that Ivan’s mother had requested, stopping in several shops until Ivan said “no more!” We made a caloric but tasty stop at Germain Pâtisserie Chocolaterie, which our tour director said is where Hilary Clinton buys chocolate when she is in town. (That likely means she was here once on her way someplace.) We also stopped at a sidewalk café for refreshments.
Dinner was on board – our last dinner on the water. After dinner, candid photos taken by our tour director and crew members were shown on the TV in the lounge. Then we were off to pack for our early departure from the ship tomorrow.
Lunch was on board, and the afternoon was mostly free, with a walking tour of Mâcon, led by our tour director. I would say that this is a town rather than a village – with a lot of international stores – the same as we would find in malls in America. However, there were also many local stores, sidewalk cafés, and old narrow streets. It appears from several near misses that drivers here believe they have the right away…and maybe they do.
Penny continued her quest for a perfume fragrance that Ivan’s mother had requested, stopping in several shops until Ivan said “no more!” We made a caloric but tasty stop at Germain Pâtisserie Chocolaterie, which our tour director said is where Hilary Clinton buys chocolate when she is in town. (That likely means she was here once on her way someplace.) We also stopped at a sidewalk café for refreshments.
Dinner was on board – our last dinner on the water. After dinner, candid photos taken by our tour director and crew members were shown on the TV in the lounge. Then we were off to pack for our early departure from the ship tomorrow.
Wednesday, September 9
Wednesday morning included an on-board silk painting presentation (Rita and Penny went, Ivan and I opted out), which included many nice scarves and ties for sale. (The silk company makes many of these items for museum shops.) After that, Rita and Penny relaxed, and Ivan and I went exploring. Ivan went to Place Bellecour (Belcour Square) – a shopping area -- with our tour director, then headed to the Musée de Beaux Arts (the Lyon art museum, which is supposed to be one of the best outside Paris). I went to the Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation, aka The Resistance and Deportation Museum.
After lunch on board the ship, we hopped on a bus for a tour through the Beaujolais wine region. Our first stop was at an old village, Oingt that has been “gentrified” as an artist colony. (The name is pronounced “Wah.”) It was a beautiful city, with buildings from the 1300s as well as the current century, narrow street, and a plaza with great views of the valley below the city.
We were then off to visit a Beaujolais winery, Domaine des Averlys, and proprietors Mirielle and Etienne Blanc. Their winery produces around 45,000 bottles annually, primarily rosé and red Beaujolais, but also a small quantity of white Beaujolais. We had a tasting in their wine cave, which dates to the 18th century, of white, rose, red (regular) and red aged in oak casks. We also had hors d’oeuvres prepared (made) by Mirielle, including sausage, goat cheese, and other goodies.
We then headed to the winery itself for a tasting of what is called “paradise.” It is “new Beaujolais” before its final stage – in transition as they called it, and won’t be ready for final consumption until November. This was supposed to be a real treat, as it is only good to consume like this for a brief number of days during its maturation process. It was unfiltered, and pretty good.
During our afternoon tour, we saw many old castles, vineyards, narrow roads (we couldn’t believe the bus made it through all of them), and beautiful scenery.
Dinner was the Captain’s farewell dinner, held on Wednesday rather than Thursday, as we will be busy packing on Thursday. The crew was introduced again, and lots of photos were taken of fellow passengers and the crew.
We sailed after dinner, going from the Rhône River to the Saône River after dark, and passing by the old city of Lyon. Lots of lights, and a great view of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the Eiffel Tower (yes, there’s one in Lyon – just a smaller version) next to it.
We stopped for the night as some nondescript place – just a place to turn off the engines so everyone could sleep!
After lunch on board the ship, we hopped on a bus for a tour through the Beaujolais wine region. Our first stop was at an old village, Oingt that has been “gentrified” as an artist colony. (The name is pronounced “Wah.”) It was a beautiful city, with buildings from the 1300s as well as the current century, narrow street, and a plaza with great views of the valley below the city.
We were then off to visit a Beaujolais winery, Domaine des Averlys, and proprietors Mirielle and Etienne Blanc. Their winery produces around 45,000 bottles annually, primarily rosé and red Beaujolais, but also a small quantity of white Beaujolais. We had a tasting in their wine cave, which dates to the 18th century, of white, rose, red (regular) and red aged in oak casks. We also had hors d’oeuvres prepared (made) by Mirielle, including sausage, goat cheese, and other goodies.
We then headed to the winery itself for a tasting of what is called “paradise.” It is “new Beaujolais” before its final stage – in transition as they called it, and won’t be ready for final consumption until November. This was supposed to be a real treat, as it is only good to consume like this for a brief number of days during its maturation process. It was unfiltered, and pretty good.
During our afternoon tour, we saw many old castles, vineyards, narrow roads (we couldn’t believe the bus made it through all of them), and beautiful scenery.
Dinner was the Captain’s farewell dinner, held on Wednesday rather than Thursday, as we will be busy packing on Thursday. The crew was introduced again, and lots of photos were taken of fellow passengers and the crew.
We sailed after dinner, going from the Rhône River to the Saône River after dark, and passing by the old city of Lyon. Lots of lights, and a great view of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the Eiffel Tower (yes, there’s one in Lyon – just a smaller version) next to it.
We stopped for the night as some nondescript place – just a place to turn off the engines so everyone could sleep!
Tuesday, September 8
We headed to Lyon very early Tuesday morning, while everyone was still sleeping. Before and after breakfast, we enjoyed views of smaller cities, vineyards, a few castles, and the countryside. Also in the morning, our tour director gave a talk and slide presentation on her home country of India (her home is now France, and she is married to a Frenchman), covering her life and family, politics, the caste system, marriage, and other customs…very interesting.
We arrived in Lyon around 11:30 a.m., had lunch onboard the ship, and then headed on a tour of Lyon via bus and foot. The tour included the Notre-Dame de Fourvière church (at the top of a mountain overlooking the old city), Cathédral St. Jean in the old city, the hidden passageways of the old city, a building with trompe l’oeil paintings of famous residents of Lyon (the father of veterinarian medicine lived here), and various other sites.
One interesting event – while waiting for everyone to get on the bus for our city tour, I took a picture of a young lady (likely a university student, since we were moored close to one) sleeping on a bench. An irate individual, apparently of middle-east ancestry, came up to met yelling in French. Someone (our bus driver or guide – I’m not sure which – translated that I had just taken a picture of his sister, and he wanted me to erase it. He threatened to call the police, yelled at me that I should speak to him in French, etc. I did erase the photo, but we figured later that he likely wasn’t the girl’s brother, but likely expected to be paid to keep the photo. Oh well. It wasn’t an award-winning shot anyway!
The Diamonds and Steinbergs decided to eat off the ship in Lyon, since it is the culinary capital of France. We dined at a restaurant high on a hill over the old city, which was recommended by our host last night at our in-home hospitality. It was very good, with spectacular views of the city as the sun went down and the moon rose.
We arrived in Lyon around 11:30 a.m., had lunch onboard the ship, and then headed on a tour of Lyon via bus and foot. The tour included the Notre-Dame de Fourvière church (at the top of a mountain overlooking the old city), Cathédral St. Jean in the old city, the hidden passageways of the old city, a building with trompe l’oeil paintings of famous residents of Lyon (the father of veterinarian medicine lived here), and various other sites.
One interesting event – while waiting for everyone to get on the bus for our city tour, I took a picture of a young lady (likely a university student, since we were moored close to one) sleeping on a bench. An irate individual, apparently of middle-east ancestry, came up to met yelling in French. Someone (our bus driver or guide – I’m not sure which – translated that I had just taken a picture of his sister, and he wanted me to erase it. He threatened to call the police, yelled at me that I should speak to him in French, etc. I did erase the photo, but we figured later that he likely wasn’t the girl’s brother, but likely expected to be paid to keep the photo. Oh well. It wasn’t an award-winning shot anyway!
The Diamonds and Steinbergs decided to eat off the ship in Lyon, since it is the culinary capital of France. We dined at a restaurant high on a hill over the old city, which was recommended by our host last night at our in-home hospitality. It was very good, with spectacular views of the city as the sun went down and the moon rose.
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