Avignon & Viviers

Sunday started with a walking tour of Avignon, led by another local guide. Avignon is a completely walled city, with narrow winding streets. Other than the bridge, it is most famous for being the home of the Popes from 1309 to 1403, and we visited the Palais des Papes – the Papal residence. It is mostly empty, as the belongings were either transported back to Rome or destroyed in the French Revolution. Seven “official” Popes lived in Avignon through 1377, followed by three “anti-Popes” during the Schism, until 1403.

We also visited the local synagogue – our guide told us that there were 500 Jewish families in Avignon (which has a total population of approximately 87,000). It is a small Sephardic congregation. I was surprised when I read a memorial plaque honoring “Martyrs for the faith of Israel 1940 1944,” which I assume are the Jews from Avignon who lost their lives in WW II. There was a Steinberg listed…the entire family. I asked the individual who was monitoring the door if there were Steinbergs still in Avignon, and he said that the remaining Steinbergs had immigrated to Israel several years ago. While I mourn the entire family that was killed, I wonder if I have a long-lost relative in Israel.

We then visited the local market, which was indoors and had an extensive array of fresh foods and wine. Ivan and I went for wine, and Penny and Rita headed for the herbs of Provence. The market had a very unusual façade – a vertical garden – you have to see the photo to understand.

The Mistral winds were still blowing in the morning, but died down around noon, as we were returning to the ship for lunch and to set sail for Viviers. The afternoon was spent relaxing on board, with views of many castle ruins on the way. We also went through three more locks, the last one being the deepest on the Rhône, with a 75 foot rise. The afternoon also included a discussion of controversial issues (suggested by passengers) facing France today, fielded by our tour director. There was interesting discussion of France’s taxation and welfare, immigration, and other issues.

Arrival in Viviers was around 6:30 p.m., followed by dinner at 7:00. After dinner, we were entertained by a local singer with songs from around the world.