Sunday, September 13, 2009
So where are the photographs??
Keeping up with photographs on the blog has become problematical – with more than 2,500 shots, the time it takes to upload images, and the problems I have had with my Internet connectivity – well, you’ll just have to wait until I can edit them down to a more manageable size. Then I’ll post a link to the site where you can view them at your heart’s content!
Sunday, September 13
Sunday – the last full day of our wonderful visit to France – we enjoyed sleeping later than usual, as we were totally on our own. After a late breakfast, we took the Metro to Jardin du Luxembourg – the gardens of the Luxembourg Palace. The gardens and palace were commissioned by Marie de Medici, wife of Henry IV, in 1615, and were designed to resemble her childhood Florentine home. The palace now houses the Senate of France, and the gardens are a public playground, with a huge circular pool and fountain, in which children were sailing toy boats (not motorized – once in, you had to wait until it arrived somewhere you could retrieve it), lots of chairs, lawns for picnicking, tennis courts, a restaurant, lots of beautiful flowers, palm trees (don’t ask me how they survive Paris winters), sculptures, etc. The gardens were full of Parisians and visitors of all ages enjoying a relaxing Sunday.
At this point, we’re proud that we’ve managed to find our way several times on the Metro without ending up in Yugoslavia.
From there, we walked to Ile de la Cité, stopping for lunch along the way on a bustling street. Notre Dame is on the Ile de la Cité, and we took several photos of the outside, but didn’t get in the long line for an indoor visit. Then we caught the Metro back to our hotel, and rested until the farewell reception at 5:30. After saying our good-byes, we headed to dinner and a night boat ride on the Seine.
Dinner was at a touristy (but good) place close to the boat ride and the Eiffel Tower. The boat ride was a bargain – only €5 per person as senior citizens! We were on the 9:00 p.m. boat, and the ride lasted about an hour up and down the Seine, past many of the buildings and churches that we had seen in daylight from the shore. The highlight was the view of the Eiffel Tower, which we had at the start of our ride. The end of our ride took us right up to it. It is illuminated at night and, every hour after dark (stopping at some civilized hour) it sparkles for about 5 minutes – a nice effect, but one that is impossible to capture in a photograph.
And that is the end of our adventure. Now it’s back to reality!
One final thought – when I am reincarnated, I want to come back as a dog in France. They are treated royally, and pretty much go wherever their owners go – to dinner, shopping, out for a stroll, etc. Truly a dog’s life!
At this point, we’re proud that we’ve managed to find our way several times on the Metro without ending up in Yugoslavia.
From there, we walked to Ile de la Cité, stopping for lunch along the way on a bustling street. Notre Dame is on the Ile de la Cité, and we took several photos of the outside, but didn’t get in the long line for an indoor visit. Then we caught the Metro back to our hotel, and rested until the farewell reception at 5:30. After saying our good-byes, we headed to dinner and a night boat ride on the Seine.
Dinner was at a touristy (but good) place close to the boat ride and the Eiffel Tower. The boat ride was a bargain – only €5 per person as senior citizens! We were on the 9:00 p.m. boat, and the ride lasted about an hour up and down the Seine, past many of the buildings and churches that we had seen in daylight from the shore. The highlight was the view of the Eiffel Tower, which we had at the start of our ride. The end of our ride took us right up to it. It is illuminated at night and, every hour after dark (stopping at some civilized hour) it sparkles for about 5 minutes – a nice effect, but one that is impossible to capture in a photograph.
And that is the end of our adventure. Now it’s back to reality!
In case you were wondering what happened to Giverny -- we decided to opt out of this optional tour, since we were told that there were no works of Monet's there. Plus we didn't want to get up that early. Just call us lazy!
One final thought – when I am reincarnated, I want to come back as a dog in France. They are treated royally, and pretty much go wherever their owners go – to dinner, shopping, out for a stroll, etc. Truly a dog’s life!
Saturday, September 12
Saturday began with breakfast at the hotel – very good combination of American and French breakfast options. Our group was then on for a bus tour of highlights of Paris, with a great (and funny) guide. We visited (drove by) the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, various palaces (which are now government buildings) and neighborhoods, etc. The weather in the morning was cool, but sunny.
Our tour then stopped at the Musée d’Orsay, and the Diamonds and Steinbergs (and others) got off to spend more time there. It is a great museum, with lots of impressionist paintings, which are our favorite, sculpture and decorative arts. We got excited when we saw some of the original van Gogh paintings of the places we had seen in Arles earlier on our trip. (Arles has historical markers at each location from which van Gogh painted, and a reproduction of his painting.) Lunch was at the café at the museum and, after a few more galleries at the museum, we headed on a short walk to the Musée de l’Orangerie, which is known for its long panels of Monet water lilies – two oblong rooms contain 12 panels, each of which could fill a wall in a normal room. Wow!
The Musée de l’Orangerie is adjacent to Place de la Concorde, which contains a 3,000 year-old Egyptian obelisk and was the site of mass executions during the French Revolution. It is also in one corner of a section of the Jardin des Tuileries, and we headed into the garden, past a huge round pool surrounded with chairs, each filled with someone enjoying the weekend in Paris. We visited an outdoor café in the garden, and enjoyed sitting and people-watching. We had a waiter that kept apologizing for the slow service – he said it was his first day. When we left, Ivan gave him a tip for being “the slowest waiter in Paris.”
Then we were off for our first visit (this trip) to the Paris Metro. Their subway system works similar to that in DC, so we didn’t have much trouble finding the line that would take us back to Monparnasse station, which is only a block from our hotel. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped to buy a suitcase (so Rita wouldn’t have an overweight suitcase coming home) and some water. Then we were ready for the most important decision of the day – where to have dinner!
We had dinner at a neighborhood restaurant next to the Odean Theatre, 6th Arondissement. It was recommended by a cousin of mine who spends a lot of time in Paris. We agreed that the food was outstanding – Rita said it was the best meal she has had in France – but the service was slower than our earlier stop today. I guess the French just don’t hurry for anything!
Our tour then stopped at the Musée d’Orsay, and the Diamonds and Steinbergs (and others) got off to spend more time there. It is a great museum, with lots of impressionist paintings, which are our favorite, sculpture and decorative arts. We got excited when we saw some of the original van Gogh paintings of the places we had seen in Arles earlier on our trip. (Arles has historical markers at each location from which van Gogh painted, and a reproduction of his painting.) Lunch was at the café at the museum and, after a few more galleries at the museum, we headed on a short walk to the Musée de l’Orangerie, which is known for its long panels of Monet water lilies – two oblong rooms contain 12 panels, each of which could fill a wall in a normal room. Wow!
The Musée de l’Orangerie is adjacent to Place de la Concorde, which contains a 3,000 year-old Egyptian obelisk and was the site of mass executions during the French Revolution. It is also in one corner of a section of the Jardin des Tuileries, and we headed into the garden, past a huge round pool surrounded with chairs, each filled with someone enjoying the weekend in Paris. We visited an outdoor café in the garden, and enjoyed sitting and people-watching. We had a waiter that kept apologizing for the slow service – he said it was his first day. When we left, Ivan gave him a tip for being “the slowest waiter in Paris.”
Then we were off for our first visit (this trip) to the Paris Metro. Their subway system works similar to that in DC, so we didn’t have much trouble finding the line that would take us back to Monparnasse station, which is only a block from our hotel. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped to buy a suitcase (so Rita wouldn’t have an overweight suitcase coming home) and some water. Then we were ready for the most important decision of the day – where to have dinner!
We had dinner at a neighborhood restaurant next to the Odean Theatre, 6th Arondissement. It was recommended by a cousin of mine who spends a lot of time in Paris. We agreed that the food was outstanding – Rita said it was the best meal she has had in France – but the service was slower than our earlier stop today. I guess the French just don’t hurry for anything!
Friday, September 11
Friday morning was the scourge of tours – our luggage needed to be outside our cabin by 7:00 a.m. After an early breakfast, we said our goodbyes to a great ship crew, and hopped on a bus for Paris. We first stopped at Beaune, which is primarily known for its hospital: Hospices de Beaune Hôtel-Dieu. It was built in 1443 as a hospital for the many indigent residents in and around Beaune, and continued in operation until 1971. It is a beautiful structure, and was known as a “Palace for the Poor.” An interesting tidbit – the room for the indigent patients had a chapel at one end so they could go to services without going far. Another interesting fact – there were two patients to a bed. (So much for containment of contagious diseases.) There was also a section where paying patients could come for hospitalization and treatment, and they didn’t share a bed. Caregivers were the Sister of the Hospices de Beaune. We had a local guide take us through the hospital and explain more about it.
We shopped a little in Beaune, grabbed a bite of lunch at a sidewalk café, then it was back on the bus to continue our trip. We had one rest stop – the restaurant was just like those at the highway rest stops in the US, except that they serve salads, wine and beer. Surprising that there aren’t more accidents! Our trip took us past several castles and lots of farmland.
Arrival in Paris found us in a traffic jam, which should be expected with a metro population of 11 million! We unloaded at our hotel, the Meridian Montparnasse, and were pleased to find big rooms and a nice bath…a surprise for a major European city. Our guide took us on a stroll around the neighborhood, and we headed to dinner at a restaurant recommended by Grand Circle, close to the hotel. The food and wine were great, and Rita said it was the best dessert she has ever had. Take that with a grain of salt!
Upon returning to our hotel after dinner, we ran into some old friends from Louisville, proving my theory that you will always run into someone you know if you’re away from home for at least two weeks!
One note -- obviously, 9-11 doesn't have the same meaning to France that it does to the US, but it was acknowledged in the French media.
We shopped a little in Beaune, grabbed a bite of lunch at a sidewalk café, then it was back on the bus to continue our trip. We had one rest stop – the restaurant was just like those at the highway rest stops in the US, except that they serve salads, wine and beer. Surprising that there aren’t more accidents! Our trip took us past several castles and lots of farmland.
Arrival in Paris found us in a traffic jam, which should be expected with a metro population of 11 million! We unloaded at our hotel, the Meridian Montparnasse, and were pleased to find big rooms and a nice bath…a surprise for a major European city. Our guide took us on a stroll around the neighborhood, and we headed to dinner at a restaurant recommended by Grand Circle, close to the hotel. The food and wine were great, and Rita said it was the best dessert she has ever had. Take that with a grain of salt!
Upon returning to our hotel after dinner, we ran into some old friends from Louisville, proving my theory that you will always run into someone you know if you’re away from home for at least two weeks!
One note -- obviously, 9-11 doesn't have the same meaning to France that it does to the US, but it was acknowledged in the French media.
Thursday, September 10
Thursday morning was relaxing onboard, while we cruised up the river to Mâcon. Also, our tour director provided a lecture on how to get around Paris, complete with maps and written information. This should be helpful in making the most of our time there, even though we’ve been there before.
Lunch was on board, and the afternoon was mostly free, with a walking tour of Mâcon, led by our tour director. I would say that this is a town rather than a village – with a lot of international stores – the same as we would find in malls in America. However, there were also many local stores, sidewalk cafés, and old narrow streets. It appears from several near misses that drivers here believe they have the right away…and maybe they do.
Penny continued her quest for a perfume fragrance that Ivan’s mother had requested, stopping in several shops until Ivan said “no more!” We made a caloric but tasty stop at Germain Pâtisserie Chocolaterie, which our tour director said is where Hilary Clinton buys chocolate when she is in town. (That likely means she was here once on her way someplace.) We also stopped at a sidewalk café for refreshments.
Dinner was on board – our last dinner on the water. After dinner, candid photos taken by our tour director and crew members were shown on the TV in the lounge. Then we were off to pack for our early departure from the ship tomorrow.
Lunch was on board, and the afternoon was mostly free, with a walking tour of Mâcon, led by our tour director. I would say that this is a town rather than a village – with a lot of international stores – the same as we would find in malls in America. However, there were also many local stores, sidewalk cafés, and old narrow streets. It appears from several near misses that drivers here believe they have the right away…and maybe they do.
Penny continued her quest for a perfume fragrance that Ivan’s mother had requested, stopping in several shops until Ivan said “no more!” We made a caloric but tasty stop at Germain Pâtisserie Chocolaterie, which our tour director said is where Hilary Clinton buys chocolate when she is in town. (That likely means she was here once on her way someplace.) We also stopped at a sidewalk café for refreshments.
Dinner was on board – our last dinner on the water. After dinner, candid photos taken by our tour director and crew members were shown on the TV in the lounge. Then we were off to pack for our early departure from the ship tomorrow.
Wednesday, September 9
Wednesday morning included an on-board silk painting presentation (Rita and Penny went, Ivan and I opted out), which included many nice scarves and ties for sale. (The silk company makes many of these items for museum shops.) After that, Rita and Penny relaxed, and Ivan and I went exploring. Ivan went to Place Bellecour (Belcour Square) – a shopping area -- with our tour director, then headed to the Musée de Beaux Arts (the Lyon art museum, which is supposed to be one of the best outside Paris). I went to the Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation, aka The Resistance and Deportation Museum.
After lunch on board the ship, we hopped on a bus for a tour through the Beaujolais wine region. Our first stop was at an old village, Oingt that has been “gentrified” as an artist colony. (The name is pronounced “Wah.”) It was a beautiful city, with buildings from the 1300s as well as the current century, narrow street, and a plaza with great views of the valley below the city.
We were then off to visit a Beaujolais winery, Domaine des Averlys, and proprietors Mirielle and Etienne Blanc. Their winery produces around 45,000 bottles annually, primarily rosé and red Beaujolais, but also a small quantity of white Beaujolais. We had a tasting in their wine cave, which dates to the 18th century, of white, rose, red (regular) and red aged in oak casks. We also had hors d’oeuvres prepared (made) by Mirielle, including sausage, goat cheese, and other goodies.
We then headed to the winery itself for a tasting of what is called “paradise.” It is “new Beaujolais” before its final stage – in transition as they called it, and won’t be ready for final consumption until November. This was supposed to be a real treat, as it is only good to consume like this for a brief number of days during its maturation process. It was unfiltered, and pretty good.
During our afternoon tour, we saw many old castles, vineyards, narrow roads (we couldn’t believe the bus made it through all of them), and beautiful scenery.
Dinner was the Captain’s farewell dinner, held on Wednesday rather than Thursday, as we will be busy packing on Thursday. The crew was introduced again, and lots of photos were taken of fellow passengers and the crew.
We sailed after dinner, going from the Rhône River to the Saône River after dark, and passing by the old city of Lyon. Lots of lights, and a great view of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the Eiffel Tower (yes, there’s one in Lyon – just a smaller version) next to it.
We stopped for the night as some nondescript place – just a place to turn off the engines so everyone could sleep!
After lunch on board the ship, we hopped on a bus for a tour through the Beaujolais wine region. Our first stop was at an old village, Oingt that has been “gentrified” as an artist colony. (The name is pronounced “Wah.”) It was a beautiful city, with buildings from the 1300s as well as the current century, narrow street, and a plaza with great views of the valley below the city.
We were then off to visit a Beaujolais winery, Domaine des Averlys, and proprietors Mirielle and Etienne Blanc. Their winery produces around 45,000 bottles annually, primarily rosé and red Beaujolais, but also a small quantity of white Beaujolais. We had a tasting in their wine cave, which dates to the 18th century, of white, rose, red (regular) and red aged in oak casks. We also had hors d’oeuvres prepared (made) by Mirielle, including sausage, goat cheese, and other goodies.
We then headed to the winery itself for a tasting of what is called “paradise.” It is “new Beaujolais” before its final stage – in transition as they called it, and won’t be ready for final consumption until November. This was supposed to be a real treat, as it is only good to consume like this for a brief number of days during its maturation process. It was unfiltered, and pretty good.
During our afternoon tour, we saw many old castles, vineyards, narrow roads (we couldn’t believe the bus made it through all of them), and beautiful scenery.
Dinner was the Captain’s farewell dinner, held on Wednesday rather than Thursday, as we will be busy packing on Thursday. The crew was introduced again, and lots of photos were taken of fellow passengers and the crew.
We sailed after dinner, going from the Rhône River to the Saône River after dark, and passing by the old city of Lyon. Lots of lights, and a great view of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the Eiffel Tower (yes, there’s one in Lyon – just a smaller version) next to it.
We stopped for the night as some nondescript place – just a place to turn off the engines so everyone could sleep!
Tuesday, September 8
We headed to Lyon very early Tuesday morning, while everyone was still sleeping. Before and after breakfast, we enjoyed views of smaller cities, vineyards, a few castles, and the countryside. Also in the morning, our tour director gave a talk and slide presentation on her home country of India (her home is now France, and she is married to a Frenchman), covering her life and family, politics, the caste system, marriage, and other customs…very interesting.
We arrived in Lyon around 11:30 a.m., had lunch onboard the ship, and then headed on a tour of Lyon via bus and foot. The tour included the Notre-Dame de Fourvière church (at the top of a mountain overlooking the old city), Cathédral St. Jean in the old city, the hidden passageways of the old city, a building with trompe l’oeil paintings of famous residents of Lyon (the father of veterinarian medicine lived here), and various other sites.
One interesting event – while waiting for everyone to get on the bus for our city tour, I took a picture of a young lady (likely a university student, since we were moored close to one) sleeping on a bench. An irate individual, apparently of middle-east ancestry, came up to met yelling in French. Someone (our bus driver or guide – I’m not sure which – translated that I had just taken a picture of his sister, and he wanted me to erase it. He threatened to call the police, yelled at me that I should speak to him in French, etc. I did erase the photo, but we figured later that he likely wasn’t the girl’s brother, but likely expected to be paid to keep the photo. Oh well. It wasn’t an award-winning shot anyway!
The Diamonds and Steinbergs decided to eat off the ship in Lyon, since it is the culinary capital of France. We dined at a restaurant high on a hill over the old city, which was recommended by our host last night at our in-home hospitality. It was very good, with spectacular views of the city as the sun went down and the moon rose.
We arrived in Lyon around 11:30 a.m., had lunch onboard the ship, and then headed on a tour of Lyon via bus and foot. The tour included the Notre-Dame de Fourvière church (at the top of a mountain overlooking the old city), Cathédral St. Jean in the old city, the hidden passageways of the old city, a building with trompe l’oeil paintings of famous residents of Lyon (the father of veterinarian medicine lived here), and various other sites.
One interesting event – while waiting for everyone to get on the bus for our city tour, I took a picture of a young lady (likely a university student, since we were moored close to one) sleeping on a bench. An irate individual, apparently of middle-east ancestry, came up to met yelling in French. Someone (our bus driver or guide – I’m not sure which – translated that I had just taken a picture of his sister, and he wanted me to erase it. He threatened to call the police, yelled at me that I should speak to him in French, etc. I did erase the photo, but we figured later that he likely wasn’t the girl’s brother, but likely expected to be paid to keep the photo. Oh well. It wasn’t an award-winning shot anyway!
The Diamonds and Steinbergs decided to eat off the ship in Lyon, since it is the culinary capital of France. We dined at a restaurant high on a hill over the old city, which was recommended by our host last night at our in-home hospitality. It was very good, with spectacular views of the city as the sun went down and the moon rose.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Labor Day in France
Monday – Labor Day in the US, just another day in France. The morning started with a walking tour of Viviers, population 3,700. It is a quaint old city, with steep narrow streets and a tiny town square with a fountain. Many of the old buildings are being restored, and our guide said that housing prices are increasing rapidly. Obviously an up-and-coming place to be.
From the high point in town, there was a great view of the town and valley below. That point also had a tower fortification (all that was left of a larger fortification) that was constructed during the 100 Years War. We stopped for an espresso/cappuccino at a café in the town square, swapping “Bonjour” with local residents.
There was a bocce ball playing area on the way back to the ship, and several passengers gave it a try. (Of course, the French have given the game a different name, but I don’t remember it.) The ship headed to Tournon around 11:00 a.m. At 11:15, there was a lecture about life on the ship, including training, working hours, mechanical information, history of the ship, etc. One interesting fact: France gets none of its electricity through burning of fossil fuels – 80% is generated by 59 nuclear power plants, and the remaining 20% is hydroelectric and wind power. (We have seen many modern windmills along the river.)
The afternoon activities included the movie “Chocolat,” which we skipped since we’ve seen it before, and a cooking lesson (crěpes suzettes) by our on-board French chef. For dinner tonight, we split into groups to enjoy in-home hospitality with local residents of Tournon. The four of us (the Diamonds and the Steinbergs) were royally entertained at the home of Karl and Odile Simpson, who live in the Hamlet of Bobon, in the town of Vion, outside Tournon.
We were picked up at the ship around 7:00 p.m. by Odile, who informed us that her husband wouldn’t be able to join us, as he had to go to London on business. Her English (fortunately) was quite good, as she had attended school in the US, and her husband and his family were British. She drove all of us to their home, which was located waaaay up in the mountains outside of Tournon, with access via a narrow switchback road. The views going up were pretty incredible.
Their home is 200+ years old, and has been extensively renovated. They have two cats, which was fun. (Haven’t seen many this trip.) Their children are all grown and gone, some in college and some in the working world.
Odile described the meal as typical French: Aperitifs before dinner, appetizers of round toasts with duck pate and pork sausage, salad with goat cheese, tomato pie (OK, we would probably call it a really great pizza) (the tomatoes were from her garden), a selection of cheeses, French bread (no butter – only for breakfast in France) and wine. We didn’t leave hungry!
Odile’s husband, Karl, is a consultant in the bio-science industry, and Odile works for a company that is the middle-man between manufacturers in Asia and retailers in Europe. He is probably going to take a position with a firm in London, which would require them to move there, although they intend to keep their house in France for vacations.
Odile drove us back to the ship after dinner. We exchanged e-mail addresses, and will try to keep in contact with her. This evening was a trip highlight!
From the high point in town, there was a great view of the town and valley below. That point also had a tower fortification (all that was left of a larger fortification) that was constructed during the 100 Years War. We stopped for an espresso/cappuccino at a café in the town square, swapping “Bonjour” with local residents.
There was a bocce ball playing area on the way back to the ship, and several passengers gave it a try. (Of course, the French have given the game a different name, but I don’t remember it.) The ship headed to Tournon around 11:00 a.m. At 11:15, there was a lecture about life on the ship, including training, working hours, mechanical information, history of the ship, etc. One interesting fact: France gets none of its electricity through burning of fossil fuels – 80% is generated by 59 nuclear power plants, and the remaining 20% is hydroelectric and wind power. (We have seen many modern windmills along the river.)
The afternoon activities included the movie “Chocolat,” which we skipped since we’ve seen it before, and a cooking lesson (crěpes suzettes) by our on-board French chef. For dinner tonight, we split into groups to enjoy in-home hospitality with local residents of Tournon. The four of us (the Diamonds and the Steinbergs) were royally entertained at the home of Karl and Odile Simpson, who live in the Hamlet of Bobon, in the town of Vion, outside Tournon.
We were picked up at the ship around 7:00 p.m. by Odile, who informed us that her husband wouldn’t be able to join us, as he had to go to London on business. Her English (fortunately) was quite good, as she had attended school in the US, and her husband and his family were British. She drove all of us to their home, which was located waaaay up in the mountains outside of Tournon, with access via a narrow switchback road. The views going up were pretty incredible.
Their home is 200+ years old, and has been extensively renovated. They have two cats, which was fun. (Haven’t seen many this trip.) Their children are all grown and gone, some in college and some in the working world.
Odile described the meal as typical French: Aperitifs before dinner, appetizers of round toasts with duck pate and pork sausage, salad with goat cheese, tomato pie (OK, we would probably call it a really great pizza) (the tomatoes were from her garden), a selection of cheeses, French bread (no butter – only for breakfast in France) and wine. We didn’t leave hungry!
Odile’s husband, Karl, is a consultant in the bio-science industry, and Odile works for a company that is the middle-man between manufacturers in Asia and retailers in Europe. He is probably going to take a position with a firm in London, which would require them to move there, although they intend to keep their house in France for vacations.
Odile drove us back to the ship after dinner. We exchanged e-mail addresses, and will try to keep in contact with her. This evening was a trip highlight!
Sunday, September 6, 2009
No photos...
Due to extremely slow internet connectivity, I haven't been able to upload photos for the past few days...will get caught up once we get back to better service! Sorry!
Avignon & Viviers
Sunday started with a walking tour of Avignon, led by another local guide. Avignon is a completely walled city, with narrow winding streets. Other than the bridge, it is most famous for being the home of the Popes from 1309 to 1403, and we visited the Palais des Papes – the Papal residence. It is mostly empty, as the belongings were either transported back to Rome or destroyed in the French Revolution. Seven “official” Popes lived in Avignon through 1377, followed by three “anti-Popes” during the Schism, until 1403.
We also visited the local synagogue – our guide told us that there were 500 Jewish families in Avignon (which has a total population of approximately 87,000). It is a small Sephardic congregation. I was surprised when I read a memorial plaque honoring “Martyrs for the faith of Israel 1940 1944,” which I assume are the Jews from Avignon who lost their lives in WW II. There was a Steinberg listed…the entire family. I asked the individual who was monitoring the door if there were Steinbergs still in Avignon, and he said that the remaining Steinbergs had immigrated to Israel several years ago. While I mourn the entire family that was killed, I wonder if I have a long-lost relative in Israel.
We then visited the local market, which was indoors and had an extensive array of fresh foods and wine. Ivan and I went for wine, and Penny and Rita headed for the herbs of Provence. The market had a very unusual façade – a vertical garden – you have to see the photo to understand.
The Mistral winds were still blowing in the morning, but died down around noon, as we were returning to the ship for lunch and to set sail for Viviers. The afternoon was spent relaxing on board, with views of many castle ruins on the way. We also went through three more locks, the last one being the deepest on the Rhône, with a 75 foot rise. The afternoon also included a discussion of controversial issues (suggested by passengers) facing France today, fielded by our tour director. There was interesting discussion of France’s taxation and welfare, immigration, and other issues.
Arrival in Viviers was around 6:30 p.m., followed by dinner at 7:00. After dinner, we were entertained by a local singer with songs from around the world.
We also visited the local synagogue – our guide told us that there were 500 Jewish families in Avignon (which has a total population of approximately 87,000). It is a small Sephardic congregation. I was surprised when I read a memorial plaque honoring “Martyrs for the faith of Israel 1940 1944,” which I assume are the Jews from Avignon who lost their lives in WW II. There was a Steinberg listed…the entire family. I asked the individual who was monitoring the door if there were Steinbergs still in Avignon, and he said that the remaining Steinbergs had immigrated to Israel several years ago. While I mourn the entire family that was killed, I wonder if I have a long-lost relative in Israel.
We then visited the local market, which was indoors and had an extensive array of fresh foods and wine. Ivan and I went for wine, and Penny and Rita headed for the herbs of Provence. The market had a very unusual façade – a vertical garden – you have to see the photo to understand.
The Mistral winds were still blowing in the morning, but died down around noon, as we were returning to the ship for lunch and to set sail for Viviers. The afternoon was spent relaxing on board, with views of many castle ruins on the way. We also went through three more locks, the last one being the deepest on the Rhône, with a 75 foot rise. The afternoon also included a discussion of controversial issues (suggested by passengers) facing France today, fielded by our tour director. There was interesting discussion of France’s taxation and welfare, immigration, and other issues.
Arrival in Viviers was around 6:30 p.m., followed by dinner at 7:00. After dinner, we were entertained by a local singer with songs from around the world.
Arles & Avignon
Saturday started with a walk through Arles, led by a local guide. While there are several Roman ruins that have been restored and are in use today (an amphitheatre used for bullfighting [no-kill style] and a theatre), this city is primarily famous as the home in the late 1880s of Vincent van Gogh, and the city in which he painted many of his most famous works. Each of the locations where he painted has an historical marker and a small reproduction of what he painted there. Many of the sites that we visited look the same today.
Van Gogh led a pretty sad life, eventually ending it with his suicide at age 37. He only sold one work during his lifetime. The stories as to how his ear was cut off are varied (one version is that he did it himself, one is that it was cut off accidentally while fencing…no one knows for sure), but all agree that he wrapped it in a handkerchief and gave it to a prostitute. (One that he knew, in the biblical sense.)
Our tour finished at a large open-air market, with plenty of shopping for items you never knew you needed. I bought a carved hollow wooden frog that makes a croaking sound – cute but totally useless) and Rita bought some lavender packets. (Provence is famous for herbs and spices.)
We were back on the boat for lunch, and set sail north on the Rhône River for Avignon, passing through our first lock. We also had our obligatory evacuation drill while going through the lock, and performed admirably. We arrived at Avignon around 4:30 p.m., with a marvelous view of the old walled city and the famous bridge (“Sur le pont d’Avignon…”). The bridge was constructed early in the 12th century, destroyed in 1226 during a Crusade, rebuilt, and then damaged by the river over the years. In 1660, it was decided not to keep the bridge in repair, and today just 4 of the original 22 arches survive.
We had a brief walking tour of the old city, stopping at a sidewalk café for some refreshment before returning to the ship. There we were able to witness a cute tradition, at least in this part of France. When you are engaged, and before you get married, you get dressed up in a costume (we saw a man in a bunny suit pushing a baby buggy and a woman in a chicken suit) and go on a scavenger hunt, with a lot of friends and a list of items you need to obtain. And we thought our young adults were crazy! Dinner was provided on the ship, followed by bingo. (In France, it is called Lotto, and played slightly differently.)
The entire day, we experienced very strong winds from the north, which are called Mistral winds. We were told that they were good winds, as they brought good weather. All we could tell was that we couldn’t wear hats unless they were firmly attached!
Van Gogh led a pretty sad life, eventually ending it with his suicide at age 37. He only sold one work during his lifetime. The stories as to how his ear was cut off are varied (one version is that he did it himself, one is that it was cut off accidentally while fencing…no one knows for sure), but all agree that he wrapped it in a handkerchief and gave it to a prostitute. (One that he knew, in the biblical sense.)
Our tour finished at a large open-air market, with plenty of shopping for items you never knew you needed. I bought a carved hollow wooden frog that makes a croaking sound – cute but totally useless) and Rita bought some lavender packets. (Provence is famous for herbs and spices.)
We were back on the boat for lunch, and set sail north on the Rhône River for Avignon, passing through our first lock. We also had our obligatory evacuation drill while going through the lock, and performed admirably. We arrived at Avignon around 4:30 p.m., with a marvelous view of the old walled city and the famous bridge (“Sur le pont d’Avignon…”). The bridge was constructed early in the 12th century, destroyed in 1226 during a Crusade, rebuilt, and then damaged by the river over the years. In 1660, it was decided not to keep the bridge in repair, and today just 4 of the original 22 arches survive.
We had a brief walking tour of the old city, stopping at a sidewalk café for some refreshment before returning to the ship. There we were able to witness a cute tradition, at least in this part of France. When you are engaged, and before you get married, you get dressed up in a costume (we saw a man in a bunny suit pushing a baby buggy and a woman in a chicken suit) and go on a scavenger hunt, with a lot of friends and a list of items you need to obtain. And we thought our young adults were crazy! Dinner was provided on the ship, followed by bingo. (In France, it is called Lotto, and played slightly differently.)
The entire day, we experienced very strong winds from the north, which are called Mistral winds. We were told that they were good winds, as they brought good weather. All we could tell was that we couldn’t wear hats unless they were firmly attached!
Friday, September 4, 2009
If it's Friday, it must be....
Friday was our final day on the Cote d’Azur. After breakfast, packing and check-out, we relaxed with others in our tour and met some of the tour members that weren’t there for the pre-trip extension in Nice. We went with Penny and Ivan for a final stroll down the main street to the beach, and explored a few side-streets that we hadn’t seen before. Retail and sidewalk cafes were everywhere, and we stopped at a cute one for lunch.
We boarded the bus around 1:30 for a trip to Arles, where we were to board the MS Chardonnay. On the way, we stopped in Draguignan to visit the Rhone American Cemetery and Memorial. This is the final resting place for 861 soldiers (including 62 whose names are “known but to God”) who lost their lives in the war in southern France that was to complement the D-Day invasion in the north. The memorial is also for 294 soldiers who were missing in action during that campaign, and whose remains have never been found.
The campaign is memorialized in a large bas-relief panorama that shows the participants and the battle lines as the campaign progressed, and this was described by one of the staff people at the cemetery and memorial. We then went into the chapel, where Grand Circle Foundation had provided a memorial wreath. At the request of our tour director, two veterans (Viet Nam) placed the wreath on the altar. I don’t think there was a dry eye in the place. It was very moving.
We arrived at Arles and our ship around 6:00 p.m., and were surprised at how large our room was – even larger than our hotel room in Nice. We had a short orientation meeting (what to do when the alarm goes off, etc.), followed by dinner on board (and a quite good one), with more than ample wine. Following dinner, we went on a short nighttime stroll through the old walled city of Arles, which contains a Roman amphitheatre that is 2,000 years old. Arles was also the home for Vincent Van Gough for many years, and he produced many of his significant works here. We will have a more formal tour and lecture on Arles tomorrow.
We boarded the bus around 1:30 for a trip to Arles, where we were to board the MS Chardonnay. On the way, we stopped in Draguignan to visit the Rhone American Cemetery and Memorial. This is the final resting place for 861 soldiers (including 62 whose names are “known but to God”) who lost their lives in the war in southern France that was to complement the D-Day invasion in the north. The memorial is also for 294 soldiers who were missing in action during that campaign, and whose remains have never been found.
The campaign is memorialized in a large bas-relief panorama that shows the participants and the battle lines as the campaign progressed, and this was described by one of the staff people at the cemetery and memorial. We then went into the chapel, where Grand Circle Foundation had provided a memorial wreath. At the request of our tour director, two veterans (Viet Nam) placed the wreath on the altar. I don’t think there was a dry eye in the place. It was very moving.
We arrived at Arles and our ship around 6:00 p.m., and were surprised at how large our room was – even larger than our hotel room in Nice. We had a short orientation meeting (what to do when the alarm goes off, etc.), followed by dinner on board (and a quite good one), with more than ample wine. Following dinner, we went on a short nighttime stroll through the old walled city of Arles, which contains a Roman amphitheatre that is 2,000 years old. Arles was also the home for Vincent Van Gough for many years, and he produced many of his significant works here. We will have a more formal tour and lecture on Arles tomorrow.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Thursday on the Cote d'Azur
Today Penny and Ivan spent the day with one of Ivan's old friends and his wife, who coincidentally were vacationing in the Cote d'Azur. Small world! So...don't look for any photos of them today. Sorry Dan and Lizzie.
Rita and I again hired a driver -- the same company as yesterday, but a maniac driver...definitely a white-knuckle day! We headed to St. Tropez, and encountered heavy traffic on the only road there. Our driver dropped us off at St. Maxime harbor, and we caught a boat across the bay to St. Tropez. There were many multi-million dollar yachts in St. Tropez harbor and, for that matter, everywhere we went today (other than the hill towns). St. Tropez also had a lot of artists on the wharf, and many shops and eateries both by the water and in the old town itself.
Our driver caught up with us in St. Tropez, and we walked around the city, followed by a leasurely lunch (is there any other kind in France?) at a restaurant on the wharf. Following lunch, we headed to Ramatuelle, an isolated village overlooking the gulf of St. Tropez, set among vineyards, with a stop at a vineyard for a tasting...not worth repeating the name of the winery, for fear that someone might actually order it sometime. We didn't stop at Ramatuelle, a we didn't think we had time.
Next on the tour was Gassin, a hilltop walled city that had some restaurants that our guide said were quite excellent. (Of course, this is the same guide that told us how great the wine was at the winery we visited.) There were great views of the gulf of St. Tropez from here.
Time was getting away from us, and we decided to scrap Cannes, but visit the old walled city of Antibes, a port town on the way back to Nice. It had a Picasso Museum which, unfortunately, was closed for the day when we arrived. Then it was on to Nice via the road that ran along the Mediterranean, with great views all the way.
We had dinner at the same restaurant where we ate lunch on Monday...a nice place right on the beach, followed by a stroll back to the hotel and preparations for leaving on the next leg of our trip tomorrow.
Rita and I again hired a driver -- the same company as yesterday, but a maniac driver...definitely a white-knuckle day! We headed to St. Tropez, and encountered heavy traffic on the only road there. Our driver dropped us off at St. Maxime harbor, and we caught a boat across the bay to St. Tropez. There were many multi-million dollar yachts in St. Tropez harbor and, for that matter, everywhere we went today (other than the hill towns). St. Tropez also had a lot of artists on the wharf, and many shops and eateries both by the water and in the old town itself.
Our driver caught up with us in St. Tropez, and we walked around the city, followed by a leasurely lunch (is there any other kind in France?) at a restaurant on the wharf. Following lunch, we headed to Ramatuelle, an isolated village overlooking the gulf of St. Tropez, set among vineyards, with a stop at a vineyard for a tasting...not worth repeating the name of the winery, for fear that someone might actually order it sometime. We didn't stop at Ramatuelle, a we didn't think we had time.
Next on the tour was Gassin, a hilltop walled city that had some restaurants that our guide said were quite excellent. (Of course, this is the same guide that told us how great the wine was at the winery we visited.) There were great views of the gulf of St. Tropez from here.
Time was getting away from us, and we decided to scrap Cannes, but visit the old walled city of Antibes, a port town on the way back to Nice. It had a Picasso Museum which, unfortunately, was closed for the day when we arrived. Then it was on to Nice via the road that ran along the Mediterranean, with great views all the way.
We had dinner at the same restaurant where we ate lunch on Monday...a nice place right on the beach, followed by a stroll back to the hotel and preparations for leaving on the next leg of our trip tomorrow.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Wednesday, September 2
We hired a car and driver for the day, and headed first to the Maeght Foundation outside St. Paul de Vence. This is a large collection of primarily Miro works, with a smattering of other modern artists. Following this, we went to the old town of St. Paul de Vence. one of the many hill towns we visited today. The town was very commercial, but with fine art galleries.
We then had lunch in another hill town, St. Jeannet, in a surprisingly modern restaurant with great food.
Following lunch, we visited the Matisse chapel in Vence. This chapel was designed by Matisse as one of his final works -- he was in his 80s. The nun that explained the meaning of everything did so in French, with a few English words thrown in -- not too illuminating.
Then it was off to Gourdon, another walled hill town, with a chateau dating to the 8th century. This was a less commercial town, and was fun to visit in spite of the steep streets.
The final stop was Grasse, the perfume capital of France. (You can imagine how excited I was about that!) We visited the Moulinard factory, which has been making purfumes since 1849. (They say they are the oldest in France.)
Dinner was back in Nice, at an Italian restaurant near our hotel.
Tuesday, September 1
This is a day late report for yesterday, September 1. The day started with a trip to the flower market and old town in Nice. The flower market was actually a market for flowers (duh), produce, soap, souvenirs of all sorts, and lots of other things.
That took up most of the morning, followed by lunch at a little outdoor restaurant near our hotel. After lunch, we headed to the bus station for a trip to Monaco. Once in Monaco, we hopped on a local bus to take us to the palace at the top of the hill -- why walk? (The casino was even higher, but we passed on that.) The palace gardens were beautiful, and had great views of the Mediterranean. The palace itself was nothing too spectacular, except for the views of Monaco below. There were a ton of high-rise buildings (not much room to grow out) and marinas with large yachts.
We returned to Nice late in the afternoon, and had a great dinner in old town, in the same area that was filled with vendors for the flower market, now filled with people eating and drinking.
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